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Delhi, First Impressions

Sorry for the hiatus, all. (Update: apparently my blog is now big enough to attract 5-10 spam comments a month). For those of you who don’t know, I’ve moved to Delhi! After leaving Zambia in the most...

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Cleaning up Chemicals

I spent my Tuesday morning disinfecting my closets from a termite treatment. It was an out-of-body experience, because, like a good development worker, I haven’t done manual labour in a very long...

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Monkeys, mangoes, and murals

Today, someone voiced surprise at the lack of love for Delhi on this blog. Yes, I said, I had posted some gushing praise and was embarrassed and erased it from all existence. But since I’ve been here...

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Morning commute

Ever since I’ve arrived here, I’ve been obsessed with capturing the sense of place of my walk to work—every day, there is something new. Here are the attempts from last week. Day 1 The weather was...

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South Delhi and Les Misérables’ Social Suffocation

Last Sunday, I walked around Mehrauli Archaeological Park. Families picnic and cricketers play near thousands of years of ruins, jumbled in intervals through a silent forest. It is lovely, not yet...

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A 3-minute primer on air pollution in Delhi

The first time I flew into Delhi in early February, I had the sense we were descending into an abyss of smog. It was like a vortex below us; clear blue sky above, grey clouds of particulate matter...

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Seasons of Delhi

I haven’t left India in almost a year. As always I have complicated feelings about this, but sometimes less is more when it comes to self-reflection, and as multiple people have told me: “not...

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Solo trip to Meghalaya

The travel blog is back! After barely leaving Delhi for the first half of 2019, I’ve been able to take a lot of trips since September. Since I find blogs from other travellers, and solo female...

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Shimla’s first snow

I went to Shimla in the beginning of December to work. Early December is the best time of year to go; the days and nights are like chilly New England autumn and the town is filled with the whispers of...

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A Chicken, and other January notes

It is the middle of a pandemic. I am in the rain in a windy city, looking through all the writing I’d meant to post on this blog. *** January 16th, 2020 The best time of year in New England is...

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Around Humayunpur

I am in awe of Delhi’s monuments. I was always aware if the privilege I had of living there, that for the change in my pocket you can get on the metro (itself amazing) and end up at buildings from...

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Public transit in Delhi

The ease and relative low cost of public transit in Delhi was one of my top five favourite things about living there. This is partially was because I’m an American used to expensive and broken public...

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I suppose that’s how things are done here

When I moved to Delhi, I bought a beautiful, hardwood bed, with spring mattresses. My roommate asked why I had done such a thing, and I said that it was because I was planning to stay. I wanted to...

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The Beauty of the House is immeasurable

I twice read Susanna Clarke’s Piranesi this December, and in the last few pages – I won’t spoil it – in the last few pages, I was suddenly in Chicago in winter seeing the trees spangled with lights,...

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